Step By Step Towards The Hill by Asis Mukherjee

When autumn breeze starts blowing and the sky turns azure and clouds like combed cotton sway, I can hear the call of the Himalaya to my inner ear every year. It almost bends me to pack up and set out for the hill responding it’s becon. That year also I set out for a sojourn to Sikkim, our neighbouring state abundant with lustrous beauty of nature, accompanied by my colleague turned friend P. K. Deb. The North Bengal bound train brought us to New Jalpaiguri Station in a sunny morning and we headed for “SNT” bus stand at Siliguri. After a brief pause for tea and snacks, we set out for Rabongla, a small but calm and clean town in the South Sikkim District.

Our bus took around four hours to reach Rabongla via Jorethung and Namchi. We alighted from the bus and checked in a nearby hotel. Rabongla is a small town very clean and quiet opposite to the towering Maenam hill. Occupying our room in the hotel and having our lunch we two set out for a stroll around the town and then we came across another group of four mountain lovers from Konnagar and Uttarpara who came and put up in the same hotel an hour before we reached. They also came with an eye to exploring the Maenam hill and surroundings. So we easily tied up with friendship and marching together revised our plan for the next day. After a brief stroll around we came back to our hotel and all sat down in the lounge with coffee. We checked our ration for the next day and after distribution packed it. After that we spent a nice evening in gossiping and exchanging our experiences until dinner. We went to our rooms after dinner at about nine p.m.

Next day morning we woke up early as usual and packed up our rucksacks and assembled at the lounge of the hotel. While having our breakfast we ordered packed lunch for us. We set out around nine in the morning and soon we took a zigzag foot track leading towards Meanam hill. It’s a reserved forest around thirty seven square kilometers and the height of the hill is twelve thous itand five hundred feet above sea level. As we gained altitude the forest became dense. Varieties of trees and hurbs are in abundant for nature lovers and botanists. After a couple of hours trek we saw a watch tower amidst the jungle. We paused for a while for rest. We climbed the tower and watched around. Someone of us proposed to spend the night over there. But we so far crossed only half of the way so the proposal was immidiately turned down and we resumed our march. We already gathered information that there’s a little monestery at the top of the hill. After four hours and a half we covered a distance of twelve kilometers and reached the top of the hill where we discovered a disolate monestery amidst the dense forest. The surrounding was clear and two rooms of the monestery was shut but not locked. So we easily occupied the front room and rearranged our belongings and came outside with our packed lunch to devour it and rejuvenate our fatigued body. Afterwards so long the daylight prevailed we explored the surrounding and all of a sudden we discovered the “Bhaledunga”, the famous cliff where from the “Tista” river could be seen flowing far below the gorge. The height of the cliff from the river bed was around five thousand feet and the view was breathtaking. Before dark we returned our temporary nest. As evening fell the entire jungle sank into deep darkness of the night. Only the canopy of the starry sky was visible. We lit a small fire fortea and warmth also. Encircling the ‘bon fire’ with steaming tea mug in hand we absorbed in chatting and singing. Beyond our vibrant presence amidst the dense forest there was no sign of life. We were trying our best to break the silence and darkness around us but in vain. So after two rounds of tea perpetually, we set to prepare noodles for our dinner. We finished our dinner and slipped into sleeping bags at around seven thirty in the evening which seemed to early in our usual city life. But due to tiredness we soon lost in to sleep. Next morning we woke up too early and instead of morning tea or breakfast we packed up hastily and began to discend at rapid pace. We rushed back to our hotel at Rabongla in less than two hours. We ordered for tea and breakfast and refreshed ourselves.

After a brief pause we took the service jeep bound for Namchi. At Damthang we alighted from the jeep and the jeep took a turn and disappeared. Damthang is a small village at the foot of Tandong hill. Before starting for our new destination, we assembled before a multipurpose shop and ordered for tea. Meanwhile were trying to gather some information of the Tandong forest and the Gompha. An old man sitting in front of was also watching us and he suggested to wrap our feet with tobacco leaves to get rid of leaches in the forest. We were, indeed, not prepared for this. We expressed our thanks and bought some tobacco leaves from the nearby shop and wrapped it on our foot. We bought some rice and packets of biscuits and sugar for our tea and lunch. It’s one hour and a half trek through the reserve forest of Tandong to reach the top of the hill. So we finished our tea and started for our new destination leasurely. As we entered into the forest varieties of trees and bushes engulfed us. The trunks and branches of the trees were heavily festooned with clinging beard like moss. Yarning for sunlight vines clambered up the tree trunks. Gigantic ferns took the shape of garden umbrellas. Sunlight filtered through the thick canopy of trees created patterns of shades in the jungle. Insects trilled and rasped, leaves whispered, little creatures walked the underbush leaving ripples of rustling and birds whistled their territorial claims. We paused for a while to check our feet and found leaches trying to grasp our feet through the holes of the lace of the shoes. Some of my friends got panic stricken but we were well guarded by the bandage off the tobacco leaves. We were forced to speed up to get rid of this insects. Shortly we reached the top of the Tandong hill at an altitude of eight thousand five hundred feet above sea level.

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Amidst the dense forest on the plateau there stood a three storied high observation tower and two small monasteries an old one and the other under construction. A young lama welcomed us. Initially we thought to spend the night at the veranda of the watch tower. But later we changed our minds to honour the request of the lama and occupied the newly constructed monastery. The lama a very hospitable man offered us tea. Tandong has a unique location. Though it’s only eight thousand five hundred feet high but it offers a spectacular view of the surroundings. Perhaps no other place in Sikkim offers a better panoramic view of the mountain ranges in the State than Tandong. It’s like sitting in centre of a huge amphitheatre. On the east one can see the full Chola Range, on the west the Singalila Range and the towering Kanchendzonga. In the north east can be seen the Paunhri peak with surrounding mountains. Darjeeling, Gyalshing, Nathula, a part of Gangtok and the rolling plains of Siliguri can be visible from here. Both sunrise and sunset are simply breathtaking. From other parts of Sikkim Tandong looks like a volcano and legend has it that it was once an active volcano which is now dormant. Besides all these there is another legend of the Lepcha tribe that saved itself on its summit during the great deluge that once inundated the world. The story has a resemblance with that of Noah and his Ark and Mount Arrarat which Tandong is said to be. Tandong is also worshipped by the Lepchas in a festival called “Tandong Lho Rum Faat” which literally means “Worship of Tandong”.

We heard all these stories of Tandong from the Lama while we were preparing our lunch. We prepared rice. We brought tinned fish curry with us. So we had a very homely lunch after quite few days. The veranda of the Tower where we settled initially was specious enough for us. Amidst the jungle surrounded by mountain we had our lunch which we would never forget. After lunch laid down on our mattress and relaxed ay enjoyed our temporary kingdom until sunset. It was a memorable moments we could treasure in our books and volume of our memory for ever. We were mesmerized by nature. We could see the sun woke up in Bhutan and crossing over the Kanchendzonga went to Nepal for rest leaving behind several colours bands of colours. As sun set we rearranged our belongings and took shelter in the newly constructed monastery. We lit two candles inside and outside in the courtyard lit a fire for tea. With the sunset the entire jungle slipped into silence. The cacophony of birds and insects sank into silence. Besides all these there is another legend of the Lepcha tribe that saved itself on its summit during the great deluge that once inundated the world. The story has a resemblance to that of Noah and his Ark and Mount Arrarat which Tandong is said to be. Tandong is also worshipped by the Lepchas in a festival called “Tandong Lho Rum Faat” which means “Worship of Tandong”.

We heard all these stories of Tandong hill from our the Lama while preparing our lunch. We prepay rice and we brought tinned fish curry with us. So we had a very homely lunch after quite a few days. The veranda of the Tower where we settled initially was specious enough for us. Amidst the forest surrounded by mountains we had our lunch that we could never forget. After lunch we laid down on our mattress and relaxed and enjoyed our temporary kingdom until sunset. It was a memorable moment that we could treasure in our books and volumes of memory for ever. We were mesmerized by nature. We could see the sun woke up at Bhutan and crossing over the Kanchendzonga went to Nepal for rest leaving behind several bands of colours. As sun set we rearranged our belongings and took shelter in a newly constructed room of the Gompha. We lit a candle inside the room and outside in the courtyard lit a small fire for preparation of tea. With the sunset entire jungle slipped into silence. The cacophony of birds and insects also sank into silence.

Sitting indoor with tea we absorbed in chatting. Time moved on leaden feet. Darkness engulfed the entire area of the courtyard and the jungle. After a while one of friends went outside and called us. Someone asked “what’s up?” He didn’t reply but pointed at the sky. We looked up and saw a starry canopy above us and the milkyway spread from East to West. On the earth a heavy curtain of darkness wrapped us with everything around. Sometimes the calls of different creatures we’re breaking the sound silence. Altogether it’s an uncanny ambience around us. All of a sudden one of us spotted the bright beam of light of his four cell tourch aiming to a sound coming from a nearby tree and drew our attention to a Himalayan flying squirrel. We all stood perplexed watching the small creature stuck to the branch of a tree. Suddenly it took a flight stretching its wings glided a few yards and vanished into the darkness. It was a unique experience to all of us. After a while we came inside the room. We had our dinner early as usual and kept all our dishes and utensils outside in the courtyard for washing next morning. We closed the door and laid down on our mattress. Night was still young and we were gossiping. Suddenly a tapping sound on the rock outside drew our attention. We became cautious and stopped talking. Yes, it’s there. Outside in the courtyard a marching sound of hoofs on the rocky floor was very distinct now. What could it be? We left our bed very cautiously and leaning against the window peeped outside. To our utter surprise we discovered a herd of seven or eight spotted deer we’re moving around in the courtyard. They turned up here for rice gruel and rice which we left while preparing our lunch. We didn’t disturb them and quietly shut the window and came back to our bed. But two consecutive thrilling experiences kept us excited for a long time before sleep.

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Next day morning we woke up early to witness the sunrise from the watch tower.
Many of us have the experience to watch sunrise from the Tiger Hill in Darjeeling. In that case we have to move from Darjeeling by taxi or jeep during the dead hours of the day for Tiger Hill. But here we were at the top of your Hill. We all slowly moved through the veil of mist towards the watch tower. Darkness gradually faded out and then sky was brightening before the sun appeared on the eastern horizon of the mountain range of Bhutan. The vastness of the snow peaks before us spreading from eats to west was beyond expression. We all stood motionless as the first ray of the sun touched Mount Kanchendzonga and with its first touch it turned pink. One after another peak enlightened with the touch of sunshine and began to change colour from pink to golden and at last bright silver. We were watching the magic of nature as if we were hypnotized for the time being. When the entire range of the mountain became dazling in bright sunshine and the jungle around us woke up we came back to reality. We discended gradually from the tower and in the courtyard another surprise was waiting for us. A group of yellow beak “Chough” and “Blue Magpie” thronged around the courtyard. They were also drawn here because of rice left last night along with our utensils and plates in the courtyard. At the sound of our arrival they disappeared in the forest in a twinkle of an eye. But before they disappeared they quenched our thirst for nature. We came back to our nest and tried to prepare morning tea. After all these mesmerizing trances we had to come to our usual routine of life. Because we would leave this place now. We would go down to the world of our everyday life alienated from the soothing touch of mother nature.

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