Lonad Caves along with the famous Khandeshwari Mata Temple is one of the most visited places in Kalyan. Amongst the places to visit near Bhiwandi, this region tops the list. The history of Lonad Caves dates to the 5th century. Being a rock-cut cluster of Buddhist caves, the place is a prominent Buddhist pilgrimage site. Carvings, inscriptions, and several other symbolisms are found in the caves. All of them are being studied by historians and catch the fancy of history buffs.
The Lonad Caves were built by Buddhist monks who came to this place from Nala Sopara port. The monks traveled to Junnar first. At that time Junnar was the Satavahana Kingdom’s capital. King Satakarni ruled this kingdom. The monks built these caves in the 5th century. The caves are now converted into religious places to offer worship and prayers.
Lonad Caves is accessible from Kalyan and Bhiwandi of Kalyan district in Maharashtra. A quaint village, called the Janwal Village is located near the cave formation. The village can serve as a reference for anyone visiting the place for the first time.
The Khandeshwari Temple is located at this site. Being a temple carved out of stone, the temple and the idol of the Khandeshwari Goddess is a sight to behold. These sights along with the fresh and peaceful ambience make visiting this place a worthwhile experience. Serving as one of the best picnic spots near Kalyan, the natural luster and pure greenery of this place is soothing.
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The architecture of the caves and temple
The cave group’s prominent attraction is the chaitya structure. This structure has intricate stone carvings. The Khandeshwari Temple is comprised of a hall, shrine, and double verandah. The cave’s architrave has several illustrations that are essentially narratives of Buddha.
The stories of Buddha’s previous incarnations are depicted. Also present are panels dedicated to Hariti, who is the family goddess, and Panchika, who is the gold of affluence.
Vessantara Jataka is one of the popular Jatakas of Buddhism. For those who are familiar with it will see these carved panels above the cave’s pillars. In one of Buddha’s previous incarnations, he was Vessantara, a generous prince. He renounced all worldly encumbrances showcasing his divine generosity. This particular act is celebrated as the Great Birth Sermon.
Vishwantara or Vessantara was a charitable and benevolent Bodhisattva. Vishwantara’s birth was during the Jetuttara kingdom’s rule. Vishwantara’s birth coincided with that of Pacchaya, who was a white elephant with magical powers.
Vishwantara was so benevolent that he gifted the elephant to Brahmins from the adjoining kingdom. The elephant had powers to produce rain. The neighbouring kingdom’s Brahmins coerced Vishwantara into gifting the elephant. The Jetuttara people were upset on this decision of Vishwantara. They all appealed to King Sanjaya to drive out Vishwantara from the kingdom and banish him permanently to the forests.
This jataka tale is also depicted outside of the pillars on the right wall. The scene depicts King Sanjara banishing Vessantara based on the complaints received from the people. There is an internal chamber in the cave complex. The chamber is accessible from the verandah via three openings. The opening in the middle is larger than the other two, and looks like the main entrance to the internal chamber.
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The Ganesha Idol
The inner chamber houses a small sanctum. Idols of Mahishasura Mardini and Khandeshwari Devi are here. The inner chamber’s middle is a rectangular fireplace or yagna kund. In the far left of the inner chamber are some rock mounds that seem to be unfinished statues or their remnants.
There is also an outer chamber. In the outer chamber’s outer wall there is another door that leads to the inner sanctum or inner chamber. On the far ends of the outer chamber’s back wall are idols. The Ganesh idol is on the right. The Ganesh idol is accompanied by the mouse. The latter being the vehicle of Lord Ganesh.
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Shiva temple in Lonad Caves
The Shiva Temple is also a popular attraction in the village of Lonad. The temple is assumed to be built in the first century. In this century, Northern Konkan and Thane were in the control of Shilaharas, who were Shiva devotees.
There is the famous Vasai inscription in A.D 1161 that has references to this temple. The inscription is a record of the repairs to this temple. The inscription makes references of the gift of a garden or Lona (which is now Lonad) to a local chieftain or Upadhyaya. The temple is used extensively by the residents. So it is a fully functional temple. Just opposite to the temple is a municipal school. The outer structure of the temple has not been restored. The dome of the temple has been destroyed as well. However, the inner sanctum is intact.
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How to reach the Lonad Caves/ Khandeshwari Temple
Khandeshwari Mata Temple or Khandeshwari Devi Temple can be reached by road using a narrow trail that leads up to the network. Cars can be driven for the full length of the trail, but the trail is too narrow and might cause inconveniences. So visitors prefer to walk up to the temple.
While walking up to the temple, there is a stream that runs along the rocky terrain. The route up can be slippery as several parts are covered by moss. At the top of the hill there are several rocky patches. Visitors can take a short break here. The environs have lush greenery and generous troves of wild flowers.
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Anyone using bus service can take bus services that ply from Kalyan to Pagdha. There is a stop at Sawad Naka. Get down at this stop and use an autorickshaw to go up to the temple or go by walk. Those who visit Khandeshwari Temple also visit the ancient and powerful Shiva temple that is also in the same vicinity. From the Lonad Caves at only a distance of 2 kms away, the Shiva temple is a must visit. There is also a railway station at Kalyan, so visitors can use the train service to come to Kalyan and then use the bus service to reach the Lonad Caves, Khandeshwari Temple, and Shiva Temple.
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Conclusion
The Lonad Caves and Khandeshwari Temple is a must-visit for anyone looking for places to visit near Kalyan. Not only does it fill one with a sense of awe and wonder, but it gives one peace and tranquility. It is a place to brew spiritual thoughts, and spend some time in inner introspection.
The beauty of the intricate carvings and temple structures transport anyone to a world that thrived in these regions centuries ago. That was a completely different world where people respected the powers of nature and embraced divinity as a way of life.
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